Bob and I started on the whitewater (for those of you non-surfer types: this is the white wave that comes in after the big one has already broken.) Bob graciously left his board on the beach and stood in the water to help me get in good position and to push me into the wave. The idea was to help me get the feel of the push of the wave, and to stand up: WHICH I DID. I got to my feet multiple times, but it doesn't really count if it's only in the whitewater.
Bob grabbed his board and we paddled out to where the big boys were. Brian yelled the phrase "AMBER ALERT!" when he saw an Amber-sized wave coming, and if it proved to be too small, Bob said, "Amber doesn't go for the small stuff!" :)
I paddled hard today and got into a few awesome waves. I actually stood up on my board on the tail side of a wave today. Not riding it into the shore, but at least getting up on it. Each time we go out, I feel it's my obligation to provide comedic relief for the fellow surfers, so I graciously go over the falls so they can see my board shoot up in the air like a missile. Gosh, I hate that. Luke thinks it's funny, but it puts me in a state of panic when I flail my arms frantically and cannot find the surface. When I finally came up to the surface, there was a huge wad of seaweed on my head! ON MY HEAD! I let out a girlish scream and flung it back into the water. There was way too much seaweed today for my liking!Bob said that I earned my first surfing surprise for sticking it out this long.
He brought me a Rubbermaid container with a pretty orange lid to store my wetsuit in! In time, he said he'd embellish it for me, but that's probably not until I truly RIDE A WAVE! :) (You can see it in the background of the photo--isn't it cute?) That's my new wetsuit and rash guard ($14.00 total for the two!!)Oh yeah, last thing. I decided to eat a granola bar before surfing today. Bad idea. Let's just say, the combination of swallowed salt water and peanut butter granola did not blend well. I started dry heaving while I was sitting out on my board. I rode in the back seat with my lovely Rubbermaid container on my lap (I bet Bob had no idea how truly versatile it would be). Bob dropped me off, I ran in the house, jumped in the shower with my swimming suit still on and experienced projectile vomit for a good 10 minutes. (I looked it up on dictionary.com. Projectile vomiting = Expulsion of the contents of the stomach with great force.) That made me laugh. Ok, sorry, that's gross. But it's true. Lesson learned. No more pre-surf granola.
My favorite quote from Pastor Bob this week:
"Yeah, Amber can squawk out a few notes!" --his sarcastic way of telling someone that I can sing!
This week is going to be super busy as I prepare to give my first sermon on Sunday! I'm heading out for another round of surfing at 5:30 a.m., so I need to get to bed. No granola bar though, I promise. :)
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